QuoteFerdinand When reinstalling, be sure to use sealant under that big nut in the centre, otherwise transmission oil will seep out through the splines in the output shaft. What type of sealant should I use here? While I'm on a similar vain, the shifter linkage had some grease around certain parts, particularly the shifter pivot ball. Because of the amount of transmission oil + road griby Earendil - Technical Forum
I a little update, and some helpful information. The collar nut requires a 30mm deep thin-walled socket. These cost about $30-$35 depending on the online location. This also happens to be a 1-3/16 if you can't find metric (it comes to 30.16). Or you can find a socket to remove a 1987-present day day GM oil pressure sender. These cost $10-$15 online, and work just dandy! Note that theyby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteFerdinand Are the three remaining studs/bolts still in there tight now? If you were to put the new guibo and driveshaft back in there now, would you even need to hold the heads of those bolts from behind the balancer drum when you put the nuts back on? And that is the million dollar question. They didn't budge when I removed the nuts, which took a fair amount of torque. But in the prby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj I think that drum gets bolted through and that is how it is fastened on to the guibo and shaft flange. Did it come off with the shaft/guibo? It's very tight in back of the guibo so your wrench has to be just right, I can remember using a germen thin open end on that. Perhaps a picture will help :-) The guibo came off with the shaft, leaving what you see in the picture. Theby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotesdp The drum is epoxied to the trasmission side? That's bizarre. Yep. Or at least it has some sort of flexible goo holding it there. I can grab the drum and move it ever so slightly because the epoxy has some flex to it. It certainly isn't metal to metal there. I'm pretty sure it was this goo, and it's overuse, that makes it impossible to get to the bolts on the back siby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteFerdinand Try these RealOEM drawings instead. Heeeeyyyy!! That's it! Ferdinand, Rick, do I need to tell you two, or do you already know that you're the men?by Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj Okay, you're getting in there, thats good. The nut on the transmission flange is a pain in the ass; the one I built for the 2002s was a normal socket that I ground down and heat treated (the outside lower part) so it would fit in that silly area Bmw gave us to work with. After that the flange might just pull off but more than likely you'll need a steering wheel puller to getby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj You should be able to tell, after the shifter is out, what you'll need to tighten it up. There are basically two types of shifters, you've got the early type with the flat plate mounting (the bar set up is the later style), I used to have a list of the rebuilding part numbers for this, I'll give a look tomorrow... You're going to be very happy when this is all done; sby Earendil - Technical Forum
So, I have the exhaust removed, the drive shaft out, and am ready to replace the seal. The Bentley seems to have good details... I just can't match the details to what I'm looking at. It mentions locking tabs, which I don't appear to have. What I do see is a collar nut, which is supposed to be 30mm and looks to need a need thin walled socket. Does anyone know if this is the case? Tby Earendil - Technical Forum
Dur. The one time I forget to look in the Bentley first. Turns out it has a pretty good description of what is going on. Of course, what it doesn't do is sh*t-out-of-wack analysis of my pictures ;-) From the scribbly B&W photos in the bentley, it looks like my litle rubber bushing thing is supposed to just sit between the metal plate and that bracket without any sort of screws... Atby Earendil - Technical Forum
So with the recent dropping of the drive shaft, I have this nice clear view of my sloppy shifter. And oh wow is me. I can not make heads or tails of what is going on down there, or what is supposed to be going on. RealOEM does not show something that looks like my setup. Where they have a metal bar (Shifter Arm #1) for the shifter to sit in, I seem to have due metal plates and a foam pad in beby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteJohn Yust Here's a tip on how to get those rear nuts loose. I'll tell you right up front, though, that you can knock all the skin off your knuckles doing this and send wrenches flying all over the place, so be careful. After managing a few high velocity wrenches of my own, I finally settled on a method that worked for me. One of my main problems was having the wrench slip off theby Earendil - Technical Forum
GOT IT (expletives) !! I was able to just remove the three nuts, and leave the remaining three bolts alone. After that you can follow the Bentley by letting the drive shaft bend in the middle, and then take the two ends off. One addition to the Bentley that I think should have been mentioned, remove the transmission side off the bolts first. If you remove the diff side first, there is no way tby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotesdp Read this tread.. maybe it will help... Hey thanks! That gives me a little hope. Right now I can't for the life of me, and all the torque I can muster, get the bolts off the diff side of the equation. I think once I get those off I can "slide" (He says, as if it's easy) the drive shaft with guibo attached away from the transmission, and hopefully have the 3 reby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotesdp Didn't I mention center bearing being shot causing the vibration???? LOL Either way though, with your U-joint shot.. you need to replace it all. You asked whether it was possible for it to only be that. I already knew my U-Joint was shot, so I knew it wasn't only thatby Earendil - Technical Forum
Here is a little look at that Drum for reminders sake. I would be supporting the transmission with a jack ad removing the support bar. But that doesn't seem to give me access to the transmission side bolts. It just makes it easier to see what it is I can't get toby Earendil - Technical Forum
So let me see if I understand this... You have the driveshaft - guibo - transmission. 6 bolts and nuts, half of them opposing the other. In my case, I have metal Drum protecting the guibo. This Drum makes it seemingly impossible to get the the transmission side of the nuts/bolts. Without it being at all obvious, how does one remove the driveshaft? How does one remove the drum? How the heckby Earendil - Technical Forum
We call this "dodging the bullet". Update: I'm about ready to order a rebuilt driveshaft, so put my car up on jack stands and went to work removing the exhaust and underside shielding. First off, note that the state of the current U-Joint is significantly deteriorated since the last video. I would guess that this is approximately 800 freeway miles (i.e. little or no shiftinby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotedaniel obviously the xi setups are better than the ix setup, as well. You just had to go and start that sentance with "obviously" didn't you. I've attempted to find some sort of article describing the all wheel drive iterations BMW has gone through, but all I can really find is BMW's own info on the current system. What's the difference between the 'iby Earendil - Community Forum
For my second BMW musings post of the week, I'd love to hear what people think of the ix/xi/all wheel drive BMW. I love bimmers (dur) but I also live in the Northwest of the US, and as such entertain driving on snow/ice frequently enough to think it's fun. Now, there is nothing quiet like driving a rear wheel light car in the snow/ice, and as fun as it is, sometimes you just want toby Earendil - Community Forum
Cab, beautiful post. If I had to take a guess, that's what I would have hedged by bets on, but I've never heard it said (or at least articulated so well) from someone who owns both an E30 and E46. I remember being surprised that in the last decade or two, BMW's base and base+1 models haven't gotten all that much "faster". Which shouldn't be a surprise I suppoby Earendil - Community Forum
So, if in fact each successive 3 series does move faster, and handle better, what are people complaining about and/or how is it departing from the E30? Or are we dealing with E30 elitists who think anything not E30 < E30? ;-)by Earendil - Community Forum
No, I can't afford to choose between all of them, but I'm certainly open and curious about the wider question. Without being clear in the original question, though maybe people guessed, we're going to throw out the ///M versions of these cars, as they are not really in the "daily driver" category. Though props to bimmer for making a fairly practical sports car. For reby Earendil - Community Forum
First off, I can answer this question my self, there isn't one However, if their had to be, what do you guys think? E36? E46? E90? Each one keeps getting successively heavier, even if it's more powerful. But Bimmers have never been about straight line power or drag racing, but instead about how fun they are in the curves. So is there a general opinion among the enthusiasts about whaby Earendil - Community Forum
Quotesdp Is there any chance that only your center bearing is shot? While that is a possibility, and would also cause some vibration in the car, I've never heard it described to the degree that I am feeling in my car. Also, the U-Joints DO have play, so they are shot to some degree. Also, when "popping" the clutch lightly, I can get a good "clunk!" sound from down undby Earendil - Technical Forum
I attempted a very similar thing with my own car. I knew it was missing, or at least hesitating while idling, but I couldn't perceive anything when the car was above 2000rpm. So I attempted to record the sound of my engine with a mic strapped to the manifold hoping to figure something out. Alas the recording equipment was sub (way way sub)-par, so the experiment went nowhere. Translatingby Earendil - Community Forum
Quotedaniel how does one measure vibration? vibrations per minute? A vibration is just an object moving between 2 or more points rapidly. Any slower and we call it shaking :-) If an accelerometer were strapped tightly to such an object, it would be able to detect it's movement in all 6 directions. If the accelerometer were sensitive enough, it could basically ask its self "where aby Earendil - Community Forum
Procede with random bullshitting... So, I'm fresh off further destroying my drive shaft u-joint, when a thought occurs to me. Unlike an unbalanced tire, the drive shaft was causing a vibration with a high enough frequency to render my rear view mirror useless. This caused me to wonder what the RPM of the drive shaft was at freeway cruising speeds (say 70mph). So, I found that the ouby Earendil - Community Forum
For all those future readers who stumble across this thread, I have an update. Over july 4th I had a wedding 4.5 hours drive to get to, because I was in it. Acquiring another mode of transportation failed, and I knew that as far as excuses for missing the wedding go "sorry dude, my drive shaft is making a squeeky noise" would not go over as well as "Sorry dude, I dropped my drivby Earendil - Technical Forum