Finally, I checked it out. Rotating the driveshaft at the input flange to the diff gave about 5 degrees of play and then a clunk from within the diff once the slack was taken up. Diff backlash yeah? So I'd better start saving up for a new diff? (mmmm...LSD...). Just wondering about the tests you mentioned, to test the rear uni properly, did you have to remove any stuff? It seems thatby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
QuotesdpYou doing this all by yourself? No one to help you support the tranny? +1 It's an evil job, definitely need a helper (at the very least to call the ambulance if you drop the gearbox on yourself!).by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Thanks everyone! Your help means I won't be making all of the above mistakes...by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
QuoteBob in EverettHey, just a silly question, is there an adjustment for the seat height on the sport seat? I could not see one but maybe I was not looking in the right place.Yep, the seats in my 325i have height adjust. Actually, I dunno whether they're classified as "sports seats", it's a leather seat with side bolsters if that helps.by nomis3613 - Community Forum
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The universal joint thing may also explain my previous 105km/h vibration problem, so I'll start by checking that. I've read the Bentley procedure, but I don't know what a worn out uni-joint looks/feels like. So if you've got any tips, please share!by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Hi E30 gurus, I've got a question about diagnosing drivetrain backlash please. How do I check whether it's a loose diff or gearbox or CVs anything else? My symptoms are a "clang" kind of sound from the rear end after letting the clutch out on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. (not a very loud noise though, I only hear it cos I'm becoming an automotive hypochondriac...). And I thinby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Update: vibration gone, no idea why!! Fingers crossed, but I just came back from a 600km weekend away and the driveshaft stayed nicely vibration-free. Before the trip, I had the mechanic replace the selector and output seals (I thought just the output seal was leaking, turns out the main culprit was the selector seal) but I highly doubt that had anything to do with it. Thanks for the help aby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
+1 for TPS being the most likely culprit. If you are really unlucky, the TPS being previously incorrect was masking a problem with the ECU (aka DME) and now that it's "fixed" it's actually worse. A while back I threw in another stock ECU (just to test it worked) and it was amazing how better the off-idle throttle response was than my own (otherwise fine) ECU. The signs alsoby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
QuoteTimH Digging up an old thread but I did this job recently. Prepsolve is the stuff you want to get the gunk off. Put some on a rag and rub it in a bit. Leave it for a minute and then attack with razor blade scraper. Are you sure it's "prepsolve" (a general purpose solvent) and not "prepsol" (specifically for automotive, link)? Thanks, Simonby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
QuoteEarendilI've noticed in the E30 that the engine doesn't run as well when in the last 1/8 of a tank (mass, not gauge) so I usually fuel before that point. This phenomenon is on the list of things to figure out at some point in the future. Mine does that too. So I'd be keen to hear why, if you ever figure it out. But running on fumes is bad for the in-tank fuel pump (it likesby nomis3613 - Car Talk
QuoteEarendilso I'm less concerned about silly things like 2nd degree burns Haha! Also, you'll be creating a great Cat Repellent...by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Cool, thanks for the tip, Tim.by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
I went to buy replacement gearbox oil for the Getrag 260 and they only had non-synth GL4 oil where I went. The box is currently running fully-synth GL5/6 (Penrite SIN 75W90). 1) Is it ok to go back from synth to non-syth (I've heard this is a bad idea for engines)? 2) Do you reckon this oil will make shifting any worse? 3) If I do find it worse and want to go back to synth is that ok,by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Not a chance I'll ever miss the car I drove while at uni: 1984 Nissan Pulsar. 1.5L hooked up to a 3 speed auto for negligable acceleration. Top speed was 90km/h, cos the thing had no tacho and I didn't dare rev it any harder due to the poor engine sounded like it was having a coronary! Fuel gauge didn't work, either (we used a notepad to record litres and kilometers, only ran out tby nomis3613 - Car Talk
Damn intermittent problems! Today, nothing I did could produce the vibration. Just in case, I tried the suggestions of revving it with the clutch in etc, but also nothing. I guess I'll swap the fluid and check for metal. QuoterkjSo, Simon. If you're going along in 5th gear and it's vibrating away and you push the clutch in and it stops?, or you let off the gas and it smooth'by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Actually, your "blowing smoke" was helpful! I'll try revving the engine at standstill like you suggest, but I doubt it'll cause vibration because it even goes away if I lift off the throttle. The "engine stress" theory might be onto something. The problem even happens at light throttle so I doubt it is the engine struggling, but yeah it could be related to theby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Alan, Dave, Earendil: thanks for your help. The guibo was replaced as part of the recent "un-Frankensteining", but yeah I guess that doesn't mean I should write it off. The guibo was replaced to fix a previous driveshaft vibration problem, the new shaking definitely also feels like driveshaft vibration. But since that would be purely based on road speed, I'm wondering why iby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Hi Folks, I've got a strange intermittent problem that I'd much appreciate your thoughts on. Occasionally the car gets a bad vibration in 5th at about 105km/h. There isn't a noise, but I can feel it and looking through the rearview mirror is blurry so there's gotta be a lotta shakin going on. It only happens at that speed with throttle on (goes away when coasting) and it doby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Rave about how good E30s are to drive* *when they're in proper working order This tale probably starts a few years ago when my gearbox got whiney enough that I couldn't put up with it any more. I took it to the local gearbox guy for a rebuild but in the end he said the box was cooked and I'd be better off just doing a swap. So now my car runs a Getrag 260 originally from a 5 seby nomis3613 - Community Forum
Thanks Rick. Update: I might end up with a brand new bearing after all. After looking into buying the tools, I've found that it might cost about the same to just get my mechanic to do the job (also avoids the risk of me being stranded with a 3 wheeled car if I get stuck halfway). So I asked him if he was willing to install a used hub that I'd supply and he said he would but he wasnby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
As for your coolant level dropping in general but with no telltale green puddle, I have heard of these causes: - leaking onto exhaust manifold, so it's boiled off - only leaks when pressurised, so put a pressure tester on it overnight Cheers, Simonby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
QuoteKellyHe thinks that the calipers may be shifting. I'll return Beemie to the shop on Monday for another inspection. How are they shifting - clockwise/counterclockwise? What are they hitting? Why didn't they make the clunk before? Fa la la, Kelly My money is also on it being the calipers (I reckon the bolts weren't tightened properly and have worked themselves loose oveby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Thanks Rick. Quoterkja bad front hub bearing will make a noticeable grumble if you just spin the wheel by hand if the car is off the ground, they are often not loose even when they are toasted. Yeah it's grumbling bad just spinning the wheel in the air. I don't have any pullers, so I'll need to buy one. Should I get a pitman instead of the 3 jaw bearing puller? Or do I need botby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
This thread is back from the dead! I've got a strut assembly and have started pulling it apart to get the hub out. From this thread (thanks!) and my progress so far I've discovered that I'll need these tools: - universal puller - M36(?) socket - impact wrench? - new cap for collar nut Any other tips to help me avoid having the car stranded on the jacks without me able to puby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
QuoteCab Treadway The only other thing I thought of, but I'm sure you've checked this out, is to check all the caliper mounting bolts. I have had bolts go loose before and then the whole caliper shifts slightly when applying the brakes, resulting in that type of sound. And if you've done anything in the front of the car recently, I'd check the bolts on the front calipers asby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Cool, thanks for the advice.by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Hi, Has anyone fitted a 323i sump to a 325i? realoem.com says they're the same part number, just wondering if there's any problems in practice? Thanks, Simonby nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Thanks for the diagram. I was struggling to picture how it all works, so it's really helpful thanks.by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Thanks for the help. Just to clarify even without the heater on (it's summer over here now...finally...) the recirc air is warmer than fresh air mode. Which intake should I spray the Lysol etc into? If I also have some decomposing wildlife in the heating plenum how do I get to it?by nomis3613 - Technical Forum
Hi, I've noticed that when I put the ventilation into recirculation mode its quite warm (and definitely warmer than the cabin temperature), also it has that "old aircon" smell (even when the aircon is off). Any idea what the cause is? I'll be replacing the stereo soon, I'm thinking it'll be good to get this sorted while I'm poking around the centre consolby nomis3613 - Technical Forum