QuoteArcheo-peteriX then I realized it was because I wasn't logged in I do this at least once a month. It only takes me 48 hours or so these days to figure out what's wrongby Earendil - Community Forum
QuoteJose Pinto Quoterkj QuoteMichiel 318iS I know, the title gives it away, felt to share anyway. Okay, I give up. Outside of it's not Tyler at the wheel, What's wrong with this? Wide wheels at the front, narrow int he back. I couldn't figure it out from the picture also, but i read the story posted where the picture came from. Right. The E90 M3 has staggered wheels stoby Earendil - Car Talk
Wrong? I'm not the one driving it? Honestly, I didn't see it, I had to go to the main website and look at the article. It looks wrong now that I know what I'm looking forby Earendil - Car Talk
Well, here is what my destroyed U-Joint looked like. Another angle will a little less play. I do remember that it was important to grab the shaft with both hands () and try and twist it. The drive shaft is heavy, and the metal can wedge itself into a stuck position. Likely, the damage is being done when the car is accelerating, and this is the way it will get stuck. Try and make the last manby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotenomis3613 Hi E30 gurus, I've got a question about diagnosing drivetrain backlash please. How do I check whether it's a loose diff or gearbox or CVs anything else? My symptoms are a "clang" kind of sound from the rear end after letting the clutch out on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. (not a very loud noise though, I only hear it cos I'm becoming an automotive hypochondriac..by Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj Today, like always, after I drain my oil into a clean metal pan I do a visual check on what's in the old oil. I'm amazed at the cleanliness of the old stuff. My car has over 22k on the clock, still pulls factory compression, get around 23 mpg and still runs hard and feels great. I'm still amazed at what I don't find in the drain pan Really? Nothing? I usually findby Earendil - Car Talk
Quoterkj QuoteEarendil I need a rear quarter panel as well. Can we get a group-buy going on here? Actually, I'd be okay with a hack job on my own. My E30 will become a track rat, and I just want to avoid rust expansion and the general ugliness of it. I'm hoping I can find a car at a junk yard some day this summer and hacksaw a piece off. Maybe then I can smooth up the edges and takeby Earendil - Technical Forum
I need a rear quarter panel as well. Can we get a group-buy going on here? Actually, I'd be okay with a hack job on my own. My E30 will become a track rat, and I just want to avoid rust expansion and the general ugliness of it. I'm hoping I can find a car at a junk yard some day this summer and hacksaw a piece off. Maybe then I can smooth up the edges and take it to a body shop to hby Earendil - Technical Forum
Here is what she looked like before I took her all back apart on Saturday. The hood is popped, that's why there is the gap, and the middle grill piece is removed. Otherwise, aint that lovely? It's sooooo much fun to start car repairs with a good bit of snow shoveling Still, nice to see an ix in its naturally habitat, yes?by Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj There ya go. Did you see if those lower bolts ran in to the water cavity? QuoteEarendil I know that the lower left bolt does not. One can actually look inside and see (and feel) that there is a molded spot for the bolt on this car. If that molded spot was not there, the bolt would indeed sink into the coolant cavity and the bolt threads would be exposed. The middle right, I can'by Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj QuoteEarendil After some silicone gasket sealer black on either side of the paper seal that comes with the pump, and some thread sealer on all the bolts, I now have a leak free engine! Woot! Thanks guys. My self confidence in car mechanics has been restored, for better or worse There ya go. Did you see if those lower bolts ran in to the water cavity? I know that the lower left boby Earendil - Technical Forum
After some silicone gasket sealer black on either side of the paper seal that comes with the pump, and some thread sealer on all the bolts, I now have a leak free engine! Woot! Thanks guys. My self confidence in car mechanics has been restored, for better or worseby Earendil - Technical Forum
Brand new water pump. I'll be inspecting the water pump very carefully for defects this time around. Any idea what the drainage hole is supposed to be draining? Assuming it existsby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoterkjA warning about radiator sealer, it's a mistake in an E30. I've never assumed such additives worked, or worked well. I'm also sure that, even if it weren't bad for the chemistry of our engines, it wouldn't plug the leak I have ;-) Quoterkj Bob, There are many cars with threads going in to the water jacket; alot of headbolts are set up that way and you have toby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotealanrw I hope the above suggestions pan out but new water pumps have been known to have "issues". What about taking it all down and then pressure testing it to see exactly where the coolant is coming from? alan Good idea, but unfortunately outside of my current tool set. Now that I know that it's possible for the waterpump to leak with a good gasket, I'm inclined toby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteMichiel 318iS How about using some chalk (or similar) to find the source of the leak first? Make sure the engine is dry before you start putting it on, then run the engine just for a little while to get it leaking and check for the leak. More detail? I'm unaware of this method of trouble shooting. Is the idea to coat all surfaces and then see where the chalk is missing from? I wouldby Earendil - Technical Forum
I have changed the timing belt on my car 3 times now. Never had problem. The local shop quoted my Dad "$500-$800" to change the timing belt, so naturally I offered to do it...for a little less So last weekend I changed the timing belt, water pump, hoses and belts. I put it all back together at dusk. It fires up nicely. But, there is coolant leaking from the bottom at a rate that fby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteArcheo-peteriX The article Ferd linked does an excellent job of explaining why the resistance test is not good enough and how to do a 'live' voltage test that is accurate. I can't find an explanation of why anywhere in the article, only a statement that a resistance test "will jump about meaninglessly". This would defy the experience I've had with the M20 AFby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteFerdinand ECU,DME - is the electronic engine control unit or whatever you call the computer that controls the ignition and injector timing. TPS - Throttle Position Sensor mounted at the bottom end of the throttle plate shaft is not so much a sensor as simply two switches. With throttle closed one switch closes to tell the ECU that the Idle Control Computer should take over. With throttlby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotealanrw Other than physically cleaning the wiper and resistor track, are there any electrical readings one looks for at the plug connector? Or do you simply clean it and the ECU figures out the rest? alan I see now that both Rick and I assumed you meant different things. And I'm not sure which you are talking about, but feel free to pick and choose the most appropriate responseby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quotealanrw Other than physically cleaning the wiper and resistor track, are there any electrical readings one looks for at the plug connector? Or do you simply clean it and the ECU figures out the rest? alan Yep! The hardest part of testing is holding the multimeter probes against the pins But it's a very simple On/Off type of test. You have ground and two other pins. One pin willby Earendil - Technical Forum
Quoterkj What made you adjust the TPS? It wasn't reading the throttle position? The TPS was failing to read the closed (idle) position. This was tested using a multimeter. I adjusted it such that it would read the closed position and WOT, and tested this using the gas pedal not the readily available throttle "handle"(or whatever you want to call it), so it was correct at theby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteMichiel 318iS How about the airflow meter? Could it be a bit sticky? Could be. I can check that out as best I can with an ohm meter. But I'm thinking the airflow meter should be flapping around even at idle. It could have a dead spot in the reading though, which is what I can check for. The ICV is opening correctly, otherwise the idle would be bad. But what would happen if the ICVby Earendil - Technical Forum
A little more info. It was running perfectly 3 weeks ago after I did the following work: New: fuel filter, air filter, coolant tempt sensor, spark plugs, cap, rotor. Spray cleaned the ICV, wiped down the intake manifold around the throttle door. Adjusted the TPS. The car was silky smooth after that. And now this problem suddenly crops up. Could the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) haby Earendil - Technical Forum
My dad hit me with a question about his IX the other day that I hadnt experienced ever. Apparently if the car it at idle, and his steps on the gas, the car stutters and almost stalls for a second or two. After that, and once the car is revved past 1000rpm the car reacts normal and quick to increases in gas. He said he has stalled the car a few times releasing the clutch pointed up a hill(where yoby Earendil - Technical Forum
QuoteArcheo-peteriX That is the weak spot of the current CVT technology or it would be in highway long haul trucks right now. It's getting better but until the car or transmission companies really get serious, the CVT will lag behind. As for all the negatives about producing and fueling electric cars...folks, we are running out of oil and will have to switch eventually. The sooner we do iby Earendil - Community Forum
QuoteJose Pinto QuoteEarendil I understand that there is no need for a clutch, but wouldn't a few gears allow the electric motor to operate within a more suitable range? I would assume that it would be able to generate a higher torque at a lower RPM... but perhaps the decrease in torque has more to do with load caused by wind resistance than it does the RPM? If there were gears, one woulby Earendil - Community Forum
Quotealanrw Well, what I have read/heard is that if you amortize the battery cost, you would be surprised at what the real cost of the car is per mile. And surprisingly, manufacturing a Prius compared to a conventional car is not as green a process as manufacturing a conventional car. I believe hybrids are viewed as a transient technology, not the answer. As for the Volt, what I don't undersby Earendil - Community Forum
QuoteJose Pinto QuoteEarendil Okay, I retract some, but not ALL of what I said I went looking for a few dyno charts of EV cars. I could only find one for the Tesla Roadster. Surprise surprise, no one dynos their Chevy Volt ;-) So Ferd, can we call it a draw? My ever so slightly better than uneducated guess, is that before the torque drop is what would be considered the operatingby Earendil - Community Forum
Yeah, Tesla needs a few more gears. Taken from this article here.by Earendil - Community Forum