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Non starting 318i M40 (fuel issues, I think)

Posted by Flyboy 
Quote
John Yust
Editing failed:

The Motronic manual says 2.5 bar with the vacuum line disconnected, 2 bar with it connected. I got 2 bar connected, like the Motronic manual said I should. The Bentley says you should get 3 bar and doesn't say anything about the hose being connected or not. I think I trust the Motronic manual on this one.

John

Isn't 2.5 bar the 318i and 3.0 bar the 325i?
I'm only thinking that because I once bought a regulator for a 318 which did NOT work, and I think it was a 2.5 bar. Could be that the gently is talking the 325i(m20) motor on that. The bentley does tend to assume a 325i with side notes on the 318 and ix.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1989 - E30 - M20 - Manual. Approximately 270,000 miles
2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approximately 110,000 miles

Hi Guys, yes, indeed it can lead to a bit of confusion, some of the motors are 2.5 bar and some are 3.0 bar
So just for your reading pleasure, here are the specs;
Mine is in red

Quote

Fuel system pressure (relative to intake manifold pressure)
3-Series (E30)
316i with M40/B16 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 ± 0.06 bars
318i with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 3.0 bars
318i with M40/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 ± 0.06 bars

320i with M20/B20 engine (L-Jetronic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 3.0 bars
320i with M20/B20 engine (Motronic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 ± 0.05 bars
325i with M20/B25 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 ± 0.05 bars

Notice that these are not absolute values, but rather, values relative to intake manifold pressure, so in essence, one really needs a manifold pressure gauge as well to get an accurate reading, so you can take the one reading from the other and get a relative reading.

But if you know the actual atmospheric pressure, which is easy enough to get from a barometer or a quick call to your local airport's Met office, if you call the met office you will be asking them for the QFE.

Of course this is with the engine off, with the engine running, the manifold pressure will drop, due to the vacuum created by the throttle butterfly

Hope this bit of info helps.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
Both are correct; it depends on the engine. Some like the 2.5l run 2.5 while others like the 2.7l run 3.0. Don't know about the M40 though.
Hi Guys, update, plumbed in the fuel pressure gauge, bridged the relay to run the pump, steady 3 bar, right on spec, then sucked on the vacuum pipe from the regulator, pressure dropped to a steady 2.5 bar, again, right on spec, but would the pressure remain in limits during cranking?
Put it all together and hit the starter, pressure climbed to and maintained a steady 3 bar.

So there goes the theory of a too high fuel pressure or a busted regulator, regulator is working as advertised, and yet the car still won't start.
I then got the better half to crank the car while I pulled the power wire odd the fuel pump, then it fired up, as soon as I connected the pump back, it dies.
So, if I control the fuel flow manually by supplying power to the pump, or not, I can get it to run, but id I leave it up to the car to make the decisions, it floods and dies.

Fuel pump checked Good
Regulator checked Good
Blockages checked Good
Fuel pressure checked Good
Temp sensor Brand New
Battery Voltage checked Good
Earths checked Good
Air flow meter Free and smooth operation

Guys, this is now a dead end for me, all I can think of now is the ECU, it looks like I am going to chuck in the towel and the car goes off to the mechanic as I don't have access to another ECU to test.
Any thoughts on anything before I call the mechanic, I can ill afford the expense right now, but I can also ill afford being without a car any longer, so kinda, damned if I do, damned if I don't.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
Quote
Flyboy
Any thoughts on anything before I call the mechanic...
The mechanic will have to go through all the same diagnostic steps, and will charge you for his time. Having come this far already, you'll end up kicking yourself when it turns out to be something obvious that we've all overlooked.

With the ignition on, the injectors all receive constant power on one wire, while the ECU controls the injector pulse by grounding the return wires. Could it be that a return wire is pinched and shorted somewhere, permanently grounding the injectors?

Are the spark plugs all evenly wet, or is one cylinder worse than the others? Maybe only one injector is stuck open?? Have you tried pulling the injectors out?
rkj
Quote
Ferdinand
Quote
Flyboy
Any thoughts on anything before I call the mechanic...
The mechanic will have to go through all the same diagnostic steps, and will charge you for his time. Having come this far already, you'll end up kicking yourself when it turns out to be something obvious that we've all overlooked.

With the ignition on, the injectors all receive constant power on one wire, while the ECU controls the injector pulse by grounding the return wires. Could it be that a return wire is pinched and shorted somewhere, permanently grounding the injectors?

Are the spark plugs all evenly wet, or is one cylinder worse than the others? Maybe only one injector is stuck open?? Have you tried pulling the injectors out?

Excellent Ferdy, I love the negative injector wire pinched/shorted to ground smileys with beer
rkj
Quote
rkj
Quote
Ferdinand
Quote
Flyboy
Any thoughts on anything before I call the mechanic...
The mechanic will have to go through all the same diagnostic steps, and will charge you for his time. Having come this far already, you'll end up kicking yourself when it turns out to be something obvious that we've all overlooked.

With the ignition on, the injectors all receive constant power on one wire, while the ECU controls the injector pulse by grounding the return wires. Could it be that a return wire is pinched and shorted somewhere, permanently grounding the injectors?

Are the spark plugs all evenly wet, or is one cylinder worse than the others? Maybe only one injector is stuck open?? Have you tried pulling the injectors out?

Excellent Ferdy, I love the negative injector wire pinched/shorted to ground smileys with beer

Couldn't Fboy use some sort of test lamp at the injector and ball park its operation as his better half cranks the motor?
It should be pretty simple, the plug for the injectors has three wires, obviously one power and two earths, one for each bank of injectors, so it should be easy enough to bridge the power wire to each earth at a time and watch for the needle of the multimeter to flick back and forth as the ECU switches the earth to fire the injectors.
Or I will bridge the power wire to an earth on the car, looking for 5V and each ground wire to the positive terminal on the battery, looking for the multimeter to flick as the ECU pulses the earths, that way I can verify each wire individually.
Alternatively I will just have a listen to each one with a stethoscope and see if they are ticking, in fact it would be good to do both, so that if there is a problem, I can see which side of the plug it is on.
If the injector is silent but the plug shows pulses on the multimeter, I know the injector has gone to sleep, but if the plug shows no pulses, then there is a wiring problem between the plug and the ECU.

I will also check the resistance on the AFM as well, just because it is mechanically sound does not mean it is giving the correct signals, I have read/heard about the tracks on the rheostat wearing through with age and not making contact, will check it out with an ohm meter.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
rkj
Quote
Flyboy
It should be pretty simple, the plug for the injectors has three wires, obviously one power and two earths, one for each bank of injectors, so it should be easy enough to bridge the power wire to each earth at a time and watch for the needle of the multimeter to flick back and forth as the ECU switches the earth to fire the injectors.
Or I will bridge the power wire to an earth on the car, looking for 5V and each ground wire to the positive terminal on the battery, looking for the multimeter to flick as the ECU pulses the earths, that way I can verify each wire individually.
Alternatively I will just have a listen to each one with a stethoscope and see if they are ticking, in fact it would be good to do both, so that if there is a problem, I can see which side of the plug it is on.
If the injector is silent but the plug shows pulses on the multimeter, I know the injector has gone to sleep, but if the plug shows no pulses, then there is a wiring problem between the plug and the ECU.

I will also check the resistance on the AFM as well, just because it is mechanically sound does not mean it is giving the correct signals, I have read/heard about the tracks on the rheostat wearing through with age and not making contact, will check it out with an ohm meter.

Peter and I came up with a great info sheet on the AFM, I thought it was logged in here.

A note on the injector testing, I think there are cautions when hooking up different test equipment, maybe Ferdy or someone can jump in here and clarify.
Injectors checked, got the better half to crank it over while I climbed in there with the stethoscope and looked like a doctor giving someone a physical.
Result; all four injectors clicking away in chorus like a church choir.
So now I don't know any more.
Pulled the plugs and all four were soaked in fuel.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
Quote
Flyboy
Injectors checked, got the better half to crank it over while I climbed in there with the stethoscope and looked like a doctor giving someone a physical.
Result; all four injectors clicking away in chorus like a church choir.
So now I don't know any more.
Pulled the plugs and all four were soaked in fuel.

You could check the wiring + sensors. If you have a Bentley, it'll give you the ECU plug pin out. You can test things like your coolant temp sensor from the comfort of the passengers seat! But in this case, we are testing the wiring. A new temp sensor won't do any good if it's shorted out. You can also test many of the ground points from there.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1989 - E30 - M20 - Manual. Approximately 270,000 miles
2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approximately 110,000 miles

In all of this, I sure hope Ferd is right. At this point, it makes the most sense based on the reported symptoms. I keep waiting for the "Eureka!!!!!" post.

alan
rkj
Quote
alanrw
In all of this, I sure hope Ferd is right. At this point, it makes the most sense based on the reported symptoms. I keep waiting for the "Eureka!!!!!" post.

alan

I know, this whole episode is spooky as shit. I hate when this crap happens!

Too bad Fboy doesn't have a spare ecu, or a friend with the same car...
rkj
Quote
rkj
Quote
alanrw
In all of this, I sure hope Ferd is right. At this point, it makes the most sense based on the reported symptoms. I keep waiting for the "Eureka!!!!!" post.

alan

I know, this whole episode is spooky as shit. I hate when this crap happens!

Too bad Fboy doesn't have a spare ecu, or a friend with the same car...

I can't help thinking of a scene I had here a few years ago; it was with Janet's car. She was in town and came out and the car would not start, I went right up with a few relays and fuses and tested the basics; no spark. Had to flatbed it back here and spent a week chasing my tail. Had the car brought to the repair shop I use and it was a bad connection in the fuel electrics, go figure :eyes: 400 bucks later we where back in business. Hasn't missed a beat since.
The interesting thing here with Flyboy's issue and with Rick's no start is that a flow chart would be invaluable. A logical series of yes-no questions which would direct the diagnostic flow to the correct answer/diagnosis.

alan
Hi All, this chapter has come to an end, last night I was up wrenching until 11pm by the romantic glow of my trusty lead light.
I had made a pact, run or bust, I was either going to get it running or cash sale to the insurance company, strange how these vehicle fires just start out of the blue, for no reason. :whistle:

Anyway, as I said, I checked the injectors, all clicking along happily, then I checked the airflow meter, the readings were a bit erratic, to say the least, so I got suspicious and whipped it off, sprayed it full of carb cleaner, so it looked like new, pried the cover off to get to the electronic bits, to check the tracks, I have read/heard about the tracks on the rheostat wearing through with age and not making contact, all looked good, but gave it a clean with some good contact cleaner and put it all back together.
Attempted a start............same BS.
Then I had no where to go, I was now 100% sure the entire fuel system was good, hell I had gone over each and every component with a fine tooth comb.
Logically there had to be a reasonable explanation, and why only after I installed the new valve gear?
What did I disturb, what wire did I knock off or pinch, rechecked everything, all checked out.

Now, to those who say, I told you so, yes you did, I accept it with grace, I stand before you with my back turned, lash me as you see fit, I drape myself in sack cloth and ashes, oh woe is me, tar and feather.

There was only one thing for it, tear into the motor again and re check the timing, yep, you guessed it.......................... one tooth out, the cam was retarded by one tooth, and if I'm honest, I feel retarded too.
Realigned everything up again, buttoned it all up, and she fired up and settled into a steady idle at the first turn of the key.

Now, how did this happen? After all, I have done cam belt replacements on this car many times, and never got it wrong once, I can do it with my eyes closed, or so I thought.
Complacency, mixed in with a few good old human factors, as pilots we have to attend a CRM course every year, (cockpit resource management), and this brings home the reality and downfall of human nature, one of the things being, seeing but not observing.
As you will recall, I did recheck the timing half way through this episode, and found it to be spot on, now how is that?
It is quite amazing how the human brain can identify something and perceive it as something completely different under stress.
I did not believe that I had got the timing wrong, frustrated, stressed, and pure complacency together led my mind to accept the timing was correct, even though, as clear as day, it was not.
This highlights the importance of why, in aviation, whether it be on the flight deck or wrenching in the hangar, everything is always dual checked.
I could carry on and write a book on human factors, one of the topics I lecture on, but I guess the point is made, and this is a BMW forum, not a CRM forum.

So What has come out of all this?
I Know my fuel system is good, from top to bottom.
I have a much better understanding of the black art of fuel injection systems that feed our Beemers
I have a new temp sensor, good for a few years again.
I probably know more about the Bosch Motronic system than most workshops in my town, knowledge is always good.
When, in the far distant future, my fuel system does play up, I will be all over it like a bad rash.
I can strip and do a cam belt change in an hour and a half.
I got the persistence award here.
Most importantly, there are good folk who live half a world away from me, who selflessly give of their time and experience to help to help someone they have never even met, and although it is via the ether waves, I truly do consider all of you people as friends.

My most sincere thanks and gratitude go out to all of you, without whom I would be lost stumbling around in the dark when it comes to matters BMW related.
The plan, God willing is to be over your side of the pond in the last week of July, during your summer holidays, to be at the Oshkosh airshow, hopefully I can throw back a cold one or two with some of you.

Kindest Regards
Stan

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!

You definitely deserve the Persistence Award smileys with beer

And you have also earned the Longest Thread Award :thumbup:
Ah, the Eureka moment. I am glad is was something that was simple. Great persistance, great follow thru. Open the beers!!!! Most important, how does she run?

Great observations about human nature in the loop but hey, we have all done stuff like that. I was working on the pool a couple of weeks ago. When I service the leaf basket on the filter pump, I usually open the electric box and shut off the time clock which shuts off the pump. I clean the basket, put it all together and hit the switch on the time clock. Nothing happens. Crap, did the motor just die? I know, the start capacitor must have blown. I take the capacitor out, go to the pool store, it tests fine. Put it all back together, no joy. Now what? I look and look and look and then I see the issue. When I shut off the timer clock, for some reason, I also threw the pump breaker on the panel!!!! Reset the breaker, the motor runs. It was right in front of my eyes and I missed it!!!!!

alan



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2011 09:56AM by alanrw.
rkj
Quote
Flyboy
Hi All, this chapter has come to an end, last night I was up wrenching until 11pm by the romantic glow of my trusty lead light.
I had made a pact, run or bust, I was either going to get it running or cash sale to the insurance company, strange how these vehicle fires just start out of the blue, for no reason. :whistle:

Anyway, as I said, I checked the injectors, all clicking along happily, then I checked the airflow meter, the readings were a bit erratic, to say the least, so I got suspicious and whipped it off, sprayed it full of carb cleaner, so it looked like new, pried the cover off to get to the electronic bits, to check the tracks, I have read/heard about the tracks on the rheostat wearing through with age and not making contact, all looked good, but gave it a clean with some good contact cleaner and put it all back together.
Attempted a start............same BS.
Then I had no where to go, I was now 100% sure the entire fuel system was good, hell I had gone over each and every component with a fine tooth comb.
Logically there had to be a reasonable explanation, and why only after I installed the new valve gear?
What did I disturb, what wire did I knock off or pinch, rechecked everything, all checked out.

Now, to those who say, I told you so, yes you did, I accept it with grace, I stand before you with my back turned, lash me as you see fit, I drape myself in sack cloth and ashes, oh woe is me, tar and feather.

There was only one thing for it, tear into the motor again and re check the timing, yep, you guessed it.......................... one tooth out, the cam was retarded by one tooth, and if I'm honest, I feel retarded too.
Realigned everything up again, buttoned it all up, and she fired up and settled into a steady idle at the first turn of the key.

Now, how did this happen? After all, I have done cam belt replacements on this car many times, and never got it wrong once, I can do it with my eyes closed, or so I thought.
Complacency, mixed in with a few good old human factors, as pilots we have to attend a CRM course every year, (cockpit resource management), and this brings home the reality and downfall of human nature, one of the things being, seeing but not observing.
As you will recall, I did recheck the timing half way through this episode, and found it to be spot on, now how is that?
It is quite amazing how the human brain can identify something and perceive it as something completely different under stress.
I did not believe that I had got the timing wrong, frustrated, stressed, and pure complacency together led my mind to accept the timing was correct, even though, as clear as day, it was not.
This highlights the importance of why, in aviation, whether it be on the flight deck or wrenching in the hangar, everything is always dual checked.
I could carry on and write a book on human factors, one of the topics I lecture on, but I guess the point is made, and this is a BMW forum, not a CRM forum.

So What has come out of all this?
I Know my fuel system is good, from top to bottom.
I have a much better understanding of the black art of fuel injection systems that feed our Beemers
I have a new temp sensor, good for a few years again.
I probably know more about the Bosch Motronic system than most workshops in my town, knowledge is always good.
When, in the far distant future, my fuel system does play up, I will be all over it like a bad rash.
I can strip and do a cam belt change in an hour and a half.
I got the persistence award here.
Most importantly, there are good folk who live half a world away from me, who selflessly give of their time and experience to help to help someone they have never even met, and although it is via the ether waves, I truly do consider all of you people as friends.

My most sincere thanks and gratitude go out to all of you, without whom I would be lost stumbling around in the dark when it comes to matters BMW related.
The plan, God willing is to be over your side of the pond in the last week of July, during your summer holidays, to be at the Oshkosh airshow, hopefully I can throw back a cold one or two with some of you.

Kindest Regards
Stan

Yeah, I had a feeling, with the lazy performance, the valve timing was off.... just sounded so right. Alls well that ends well Stan smileys with beer Cheers
Great! I have been waiting for this post, I really wanted to know what was wrong as I was out of answers. Luckily there's a couple of guys here that really know the E30 in and out and you persevered, I'm happy your car hasn't turned into a scrap item because of this.
You'll enjoy your car more than ever now!

This post had to come to an end as well, I had to read far right on my screen, it became uncomfortable.
Hi Guys, took the car to work, a good 60km round trip, it is running well, I can definitely feel that it has got its grunt back again, especially on acceleration, we will see how the fuel consumption goes now, hoping it improves a bit, although it was never too bad, getting around 7.5L/100Km
And the motor is now oh soooo quiet, its eerie.
Problem of course is, now I can hear all the other noises, oh well just turn up the radio.
There are one or two minor issues, it hunts a little at idle, not bad, about 200rpm, but still, it is not right, and sometimes if you let the car idle for extended periods, it will die after two or three minutes, but starts right up again.
And sometimes, intermittently, if you have been coasting on a closed throttle, or partial throttle, and then accelerate, it will miss quite badly once or twice and then pick up and go.
Other than those two issues, she runs sweet.
So I will give the ECU a few days to find its feet and remap itself (I had the battery off for a day, so I assume it is currently running on the default mapping), and if the problem does not resolve itself, my first course of action will be jumping in and looking for a vacuum/intake leak somewhere.
I know that my pipe between the AFM and the throttle body is not the greatest any more, but is not leaking yet, will also tackle the idle stabiliser valve with some carb cleaner, as it looked pretty grungy inside.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
I remember my 325iX needed quite some time to relearn itself, both my 318iS'es had been a lot faster;
Stan, at one point, you were suspicicious that your engine was flooding. Possible the injectors are still leaking? What do the plugs look like? Also sounds like a small vac leak somewhere?

alan
rkj
Quote
Flyboy
Hi Guys, took the car to work, a good 60km round trip, it is running well, I can definitely feel that it has got its grunt back again, especially on acceleration, we will see how the fuel consumption goes now, hoping it improves a bit, although it was never too bad, getting around 7.5L/100Km
And the motor is now oh soooo quiet, its eerie.
Problem of course is, now I can hear all the other noises, oh well just turn up the radio.
There are one or two minor issues, it hunts a little at idle, not bad, about 200rpm, but still, it is not right, and sometimes if you let the car idle for extended periods, it will die after two or three minutes, but starts right up again.
And sometimes, intermittently, if you have been coasting on a closed throttle, or partial throttle, and then accelerate, it will miss quite badly once or twice and then pick up and go.
Other than those two issues, she runs sweet.
So I will give the ECU a few days to find its feet and remap itself (I had the battery off for a day, so I assume it is currently running on the default mapping), and if the problem does not resolve itself, my first course of action will be jumping in and looking for a vacuum/intake leak somewhere.
I know that my pipe between the AFM and the throttle body is not the greatest any more, but is not leaking yet, will also tackle the idle stabiliser valve with some carb cleaner, as it looked pretty grungy inside.

You might take a look at the plugs too, they're probably dirty from all the previous goings on- I'm so glad you're back in action. That's gotta feel good :burnout:
I recon you guys are right, the plug gaps looked a little big when I checked them, I will give it another run to the airport and back tomorrow, 60km round trip, and it is all freeway driving, and being a Sunday, there will be very little traffic, so I can stretch its legs, blow all the cobwebs out, and then I will pull the plugs and do a reading.
Al, you may be right, when it stalls at idle, it is a rich cut, I have to floor the accelerator to restart, typical of a rich cut. I think those injectors have been in the car since it left the factory, 20 years ago.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
Hmmm, well, what else could cause a rich idle condition? Also, the ECU is still probably relearning it's map. Vac leak would cause a lean condition. Guys, how do you test for leaky injectors? Pull the fuel rail and run the fuel pump? Theoretically, the injectors shouldn't spill gas unless the ECU grounds them?

alan
OK, just found this:

[www.thirdgen.org]

It should apply here.

alan
Quote
alanrw
Hmmm, well, what else could cause a rich idle condition? Also, the ECU is still probably relearning it's map. Vac leak would cause a lean condition. Guys, how do you test for leaky injectors? Pull the fuel rail and run the fuel pump? Theoretically, the injectors shouldn't spill gas unless the ECU grounds them?

alan

Test for a leak by attaching a fuel gauge to the rail side. Start the car, pressure the system, and time how much pressure you lose per time period. No, I don't recall the pressure loss / time limits of acceptability. But armed with that one should be able to find the info online.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1989 - E30 - M20 - Manual. Approximately 270,000 miles
2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approximately 110,000 miles

rkj
Quote
Flyboy
I recon you guys are right, the plug gaps looked a little big when I checked them, I will give it another run to the airport and back tomorrow, 60km round trip, and it is all freeway driving, and being a Sunday, there will be very little traffic, so I can stretch its legs, blow all the cobwebs out, and then I will pull the plugs and do a reading.
Al, you may be right, when it stalls at idle, it is a rich cut, I have to floor the accelerator to restart, typical of a rich cut. I think those injectors have been in the car since it left the factory, 20 years ago.

Hey Stan

I forgot what you're mileage is but I've found two bottles of Chevron Techtron fuel injection cleaner has worked for me for years in cars with high miles. Can you get it in Africa?

It's been pointed out, if you leave the fuel pressure gauge on the car after you shut down for a shed test you Will see what the state of things are; if it bleeds down in an hour or two somethings up somewhere. Just try it and see what happens. There's nothing that makes an older Bimmer run right as replacing the injectors! Mine are due also but I keep dosing the tank every so often to keep things manageable.

In any event it's good to have you back, keep the Faith~

Rick
Hi Guys, thanks for the advice.
Yes I will do a leak down test if things don't get better, but again, lesson learnt, it didn't do it before, only since it is all back together....mmmmmm??
Rick, no we don't get the same product here, Chevron does not have a presence in South Africa, but there are plenty of other makes of injector cleaners, from Wynn's, Castrol etc, as I have always said, I would sell body parts to get my hands on a crate of Seafoam, I think that is the best thing since sliced bread.
I will run some injector cleaner through as well, I last sat with a toothbrush and a jar of solvent and cleaned the injectors about five years ago, when I had the head off to do the head gasket.
By the way, the car is now on 350 000Km but previous owner says the speedo was out of commission for about a year at one stage.
I do about 20 000Km a year on average, so the injectors were cleaned about 100 000Km ago.
But as I said, I will give it another run out to the airport today and then pull the plugs, and do a reading.
Being that it didn't do it before, only since it is all back together, I will give it the benefit of the doubt for now, and put it down to the ECU busy remapping, I have only done about 70Km since getting it running, not sure how long this mapping Malarkey takes? Anyone?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E30'S AREN'T BUILT, THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE WILD!!!



When in doubt, use full throttle,
it may not improve the situation, but it will end the suspence.
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