February 07, 2009 08:53AM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 1 |
February 07, 2009 03:18PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 609 : SoCal |
February 07, 2009 04:43PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 1,869 : Amagansett, New York |
February 07, 2009 09:42PM
|
|
Admin
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 944 : Lake Havasu City, Arizona |
February 08, 2009 02:19PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 255 : Heber City, Utah |
Power windows and sunroof are both effected by the fuse interrupt on your console or up by the hazards (depends on the year). Maybe someone was fooling around with a switch they did not know did something! As far as not starting, all the electrical items mentioned will work with a weak battery, just not as powerful. If you put a tester on the battery and it is 12.3 volts then your battery is only half charged and probably will not crank the starter. 12.6 volts and above means the battery is full and you should look at fuses, relays, grounds, and then the starter last. Sometimes the ignition itself can be finicky. There is also a safety device on cars with the 13 button OBC that if a code is entered and accidentally programmed your car will not start unless the right code is input...I hope that is not the problem because without the right code you are screwed!
|
February 08, 2009 02:56PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 609 : SoCal |
February 08, 2009 03:05PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 1,538 |
That will work but the OP said when he turned the key...nothing. If the code is active, the engine will still crank but can't start because either the main relay or fuel pump are dis engaged. Dead battery is the most likely cause. One other cause we saw in the past is the fuseable link in the positive power cable. If that goes completely, there will still be juice but nothing to the starter. |
February 08, 2009 03:14PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 609 : SoCal |
February 08, 2009 05:58PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 1,538 |
Unfortunately not...voltage can read good on both sides but id it's corroded, it won't carry current. I suppose you could look at the voltage while trying to start and it should drop drastically but you need a buddy who can read a meter Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2009 06:00PM by Archeo-peteriX. |
February 10, 2009 09:33AM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 1,869 : Amagansett, New York |
Or long extension jumper wires B)- |
February 10, 2009 03:38PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 609 : SoCal |
April 27, 2009 02:39PM
|
|
Registered: 15 years ago
Posts: 4 : Edinburgh, Scotland, UK |
This all rings alarm bells. Power windows and sunroof are powered through the K7 unloaded relay (as Bob in Everett suggests).
The trick with K7 is that it's only on when the the starter is off - it does this by having its coil grounded through the starter motor winding (Aaaaarghh!) [K7 coil high side is connected to 12 through ignition, K7 coil low side is connected to high side of starter motor. When starter is off, K7 sees 0V through the starter windings, so K7 turns on (coil voltage = 12V). When starter is on, K7 sees 12V applied to starter, so K7 turns off (coil voltage = 0V)] So if starter, electric windows and sunroof suddenly die together, I would immediately suspect the starter wiring - most likely the ground connection. other things to check - mirrors and blower motor motor will probably be dead too. I know this because after changing my autobox I found the electric windows, blower, sunroof, mirrors and brake pad warning light all malfunctioning. Problem was loose connection on starter motor wiring. It was a sod to find, but felt great when I found it! --- I tidied my tools, stood back, admired my work, and the garage door fell off… |